When brands die
Netflix has filmed the life of forgotten designer Roy "Halston" Frowick. The result is not only a cocaine-soaked psychogram, but also a lesson in brand strategy: even the biggest brands can die.

Halston had come to compete with the greatest in his field—and to win. There could be no doubt of that when the American fashion designer and his entourage arrived at the Palace of Versailles in 1973; for the media-hyped «battle» with the icons of French fashion—Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro, and Pierre Cardin. Halston himself was at the height of his career, tailoring everything from haute couture to glamorous ready-to-wear for American women, and now he wanted to make his mark on the international stage as well. While the «French» relied on classic opulence, Halston sent his girlfriend Liza Minnelli down the runway. Trendy, as-yet-unknown models—a novelty at the time—presented his modern designs. This earned him a standing ovation, victory in the competition—and, it seemed, lasting fame as a natural consequence.
«When Halston died prematurely in 1990, the star of this creative genius had faded.»
Lonely and a failure
But things turned out quite differently: When Halston died prematurely in 1990, the creative genius’s star had faded. His former associates had turned their backs on him, and the fortune he had amassed was nearly depleted. The very brands he had «conquered» at Versailles just seventeen years earlier were thriving. Both the brand and the man faded into obscurity. And that would likely have remained the case were it not for a new Netflix series in which Ewan McGregor portrays the designer. The biopic, marked by excess and eccentricity, quickly became a hit. Understandably so, as the series is not only a brilliant psychological portrait but also a lesson in brand strategy: If a brand that Tommy Hilfiger once described as «the greatest inspiration of his youth» can vanish within a few years—who, then, is truly immune to this fate?
Halston: Characters
But before we list the mistakes that led to the brand’s demise—and try to draw lessons from them—here’s a brief look at the eventful life of Roy Halston Frowick, born in 1932 in rural Iowa. Coming from a humble background and trained as a window dresser, he first gained recognition at the age of 29: Jackie Kennedy wore a hat he had designed to her husband’s inauguration. Shortly thereafter, he launched a women’s fashion collection that was coveted and beloved by stars such as Bianca Jagger, Liza Minnelli, and Elizabeth Taylor.

Couture was joined by everyday fashion: Halston’s style was considered quintessentially American and, much like that of his colleague Calvin Klein later on, featured elegant, minimalist designs made from fine materials that flattered the wearer’s figure. Long, slim dresses or airy silk pantsuits, flowing chiffon scarves, and kaftans made of sheer suede immediately became classics. His female clientele sensed that their comfort mattered to Halston: Before his soirées, he liked to completely rework the entire plan because he wanted to adapt his dresses to the silhouettes of his models—and not the other way around.

The Name – Sold
In 1973, Halston sold his business to the conglomerate Norton Simon for $12 million, but remained with the company as managing director and chief designer. Licenses were granted for the Halston line, which continued to diversify. After a few final major successes—such as the Halston perfume—the decline began: Norton Simon was swallowed up by the conglomerate Esmark; Halston was forced to create a budget fashion line for the retailer J.C. Penney. The «established» fashion world punished him for this with contempt. The designer sank into depression, which he tried to combat with sex, drugs, and parties at the legendary Studio 54. However, he was never able to shake the deep regret over the fact that his own mistakes had brought about the end of his brand—a regret that stayed with him until his death. How could it have come to this?
«He never got over the deep regret that his own mistakes had heralded the end of his brand, right up until his death.»
Creativity Requires a Mindset
Even the grandest visions require a consistent stance. After all, without a stance, there is no brand. Halston, on the other hand, firmly believed that he would be understood intuitively. He viewed his individual creations as fragments of a body of work that spoke for itself through the creator’s genius; that, he believed, should be enough to establish a brand identity. Especially in the fashion world, with its shifting trends and intense competition, only a few manage to anchor themselves in the hearts of the public over the long term. For there is a fine line between the constant need for new creations—and the necessary «common thread» that ties everything together; that brings the brand identity to life. Halston failed to walk this fine line. Hermès, Chanel, and even the popular brand Nike all share the ability to continually inspire their customers while—and this is crucial—remaining true to themselves. They leave it to others to ride the wave of the zeitgeist. Or, in the words of Ralph Lauren: «Fashion is over very quickly. Style is forever.»
«Brand management is an interdisciplinary art; success is always the result of collaboration.»
Brand Extension: When and Where
If you watch the Netflix series about Halston, you might notice a fictional commercial: The designer is shown multiple times against a white background, proclaiming in unison that his products now shape every aspect of people’s daily lives—«Halston for your every day! Halston for your world!». Luggage, home textiles, cosmetics—this is a far cry from the self-image with which Halston once took the fashion world by storm. Brand extension—that is, expanding into new business areas using an existing brand—is one of the most demanding challenges in branding. There are two key questions to keep in mind—when and where.
First, the timing: The younger the brand, the more restraint is called for when expanding. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, Halston’s two American challengers, focused on their core fashion business in their early years. Expansion into new business areas didn’t follow until years later. And Ferrari’s recently announced diversification into restaurants seems conceivable (if at all) only because the premium brand has built a clear image over time.
Second, the “where”: Brand extension must absolutely support the brand’s positioning. The goal must be for the extension to further enhance the brand. This means that the “where” always pursues two equally important objectives: entering a new field and strengthening the brand with new capabilities. The extensive expansion of the Halston brand negligently disregarded the latter. The result: a premature and steady loss of brand identity, until the brand had completely lost its flexibility.
No Performance, No Brand
The debate over what makes brands successful is a long-standing and intense one. Currently, abstract concepts such as «purpose» and the much-cited «why» are shaping the discussion. Yet I am convinced that, in addition to their significant «inner purpose,» brands must above all convince through performance—that is, the «what» and the «how.» Roy Halston Frowick, who elevated America to the fashion Olympus, owed his initial success to his distinctive style. His bias cut—which cuts fabrics at a 45-degree angle rather than along the grain—resulted in uniquely light and natural creations. They reflected the joyful, emancipated self-image that defined urban America in the early 1970s. His «Ultrasuede Shirtdress,» launched in 1972, built on this and secured his success with the general public. And what came next?
«Brands must win people over with their core offerings to be successful in the long term. If they fail to do so, they risk losing their appeal.»
Innovation has dried up. It wasn’t a sudden collapse, but the designs lacked the inspiration and novelty of the early years. Neither the spectacularly staged shows nor the targeted self-promotion could fill this gap. The principle is irrefutable: Brands must win people over through their core offerings to achieve long-term success. Without this expertise, erosion looms. How telling, then, that Halston—both in the series and in real life—was praised by the trade press only one more time: when, free from commercial interests and constraints, he designed ballet costumes for a friend. That’s when he did what he was truly capable of, what he truly loved.

Complexity Calls for Collaboration
The Netflix series chronicles the rise of Roy Halston Frowick as an inspiring figure with great creative ambition. But he does not walk the path to success alone. He gathers a circle of close associates who complement him and each other: Elsa Peretti, who later rose to become a defining figure at Tiffany & Co.; illustrator Joe Eula; and Liza Minnelli, Halston’s muse, are also among the central characters. Yet after the «Battle of Versailles,» the self-centered Halston had broken ties with his companions. Brand leadership, however, is an interdisciplinary art, and success is always the result of collaboration. And that requires the seamless interplay of different skills, perspectives, and personalities.
For those of us who work in branding, the Netflix show about Halston serves as a warning: Only those who are consistent, who expand their brand only after establishing a solid foundation, who deliver results—and who surround themselves with a good team—will succeed. The temptation, however, to follow the designer’s example after a few early successes is great. Or, as Norton Simon’s CEO—who was quite fond of Halston—said during a lunch together: «Genius isn’t enough. Anyone who thinks they’re a genius stops growing.»
Truth and Fiction: A Brief Disclaimer: Of course, what happened in the Netflix show isn’t always exactly the same as what actually happened in Halston’s private life. While the designer’s biographers and surviving business partners approve of the screenwriters’ approach, Halston’s surviving family members—particularly his niece—were not consulted. The reasons for the decline of the Halston brand, however, are well-documented and were covered extensively by various media outlets at the time.
* Alexander Haldemann is CEO of Publicis Groupe, Switzerland’s largest communications group. He holds a doctorate in economics and has been active in the creative industry for over 20 years, having lived in Asia, Europe, and North America. In 2016, he sold the branding agency MetaDesign, which he owned and managed, to the Publicis Group. Since 2020, he has served as global chairman of MetaDesign and as CEO of Publicis Groupe in Zurich.












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