Something that caught my attention: Just hearing the terms “organic” or “biodynamic” viticulture makes some wine lovers’ mouths go dry.
It’s noticeable that the terms “organic” or “biodynamic” viticulture make some wine lovers’ mouths go dry. That’s because they think of dull, musty, and undrinkable wines. Whereas in the culinary world, organic options aren’t highlighted often enough—
Column
"In der Tat" by Michael Barney
Only insiders will know from the headline of my column what this is about: Of course, the World Cup. Because, in fact, that phrase belongs to ARD commentator Günter Netzer. No sooner does his studio counterpart—the pale, poorly dressed Gerhard Delling—fire off a question or a statement in the direction of the always well-dressed Mr. Netzer than the former Gladbach player replies, «Indeed, and so on…» I practically grew up with Günter Netzer. No, not alongside him at Borussia Mönchengladbach, but in front of the TV. His late substitution in the cup final against 1. FC Köln and his magnificent winning goal back then are unforgettable. Netzer was one of the first German soccer players with long hair and his own nightclub. At the time, *Der Spiegel* raved about his almost erotic love for the ball, the way he would spin and caress it long and thoroughly before taking a free kick. Yes, it was Günter Netzer who, with his flowing mane and broad chest, became a sex symbol. Admittedly, it wasn’t hard to stand out against a dull Gerd Müller, «Monkey Head» Paul Breitner, or former postal worker Franz Beckenbauer. When Günter Netzer went on to play in a Real Madrid jersey, he truly became a cult figure. And now, as a commentator, he certainly is one. My art director, Reto Leierer, agrees—he’s a huge fan of France and has had to suffer a lot so far, to be sure. The same goes for our Fernando, who, as an Argentine, is currently going through hell. As a German, I suffer neither from «gluttony» nor from national pride. Since my mother was from Flanders, I was more of a Belgian fan. Even if they didn’t get very far. To that, Mr. Netzer would reply with an unequivocal “indeed.”.
Michael Barney is a senior copywriter at the Lowe advertising agency in Zurich.
Business lunch
A Brief Ode to the Chemmeribodebad Meringue What is known as an “Anglo-style business lunch” in bustling, lively Zurich is called the much more refined “déjeuner d’affaires” in Bern. Especially on a terrace as elegant as that of the Hotel Bellevue Palace. When the sun is shining, this open-air restaurant is filled to capacity. A view of the Aare and Marzilibad, a view of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau, a view of the Palais Fédéral. You dine in the heart of Switzerland and are served by a team of waitstaff with the finest manners. It’s lovely and, at times, relaxing—though since you’re sitting rather close together outdoors, you shouldn’t discuss the inner workings of military security facilities, and certainly not the private lives of parliamentarians.
The lunch menu is priced at 66 francs. That’s not cheap, but it’s not excessive either, considering the à la carte prices for main courses (between 36 and 54 francs). We started with paper-thin slices of bresaola on pieces of ripe Charentais melon, drizzled with top-quality olive oil and sprinkled with finely shaved lemon zest. The lemony aftertaste refreshed and invigorated the palate without being overpowering. For the main course, the staff served a sea bass fillet, perfectly seared, with pesto rice and fresh porcini mushrooms, garnished with a few basil leaves. Pesto rice? With all due respect, that’s first-class gastronomic nonsense: the rice was dry, and the pesto lacked character. Pesto belongs in pasta or as salsa verde with cooked meat. That’s all it’s good for. Unfortunately, the tight seating arrangement doesn’t allow the kitchen staff to roll out the dessert cart afterward. What a shame! Peach salad with raspberry sorbet and peach roulade: Not bad. «Chirschi-Prägu» (sour cherries in cherry juice) with meringues from Chemmeribodebad and vanilla ice cream: Very tasty and full of flavor, this meringue. This Chemmeribodebad is definitely worth seeking out.
When it comes to wines, the Bellevue falls short. Many open-bottle wines from Vaud (this post-colonial pretentiousness still dominates), few «foreign» wines. A maître d’ explained that the open-bottle wines are selected based on the menu. For a five-star hotel, however, the selection is rather meager—maybe the sommelier wants to get rid of some slow-moving stock; who knows? All in all, lunch on the terrace for two costs a good 200 francs. Sure, the view is included in the price, but you have to reserve it in advance. Parking is available in the adjacent parking garage. Carlo Bernasconi [email protected]
Hotel Bellevue Palace, Kochergasse 3-5
3001 Bern
Tel. 031 320 45 45
Fax 031 311 47 43
Food Rating …………………..3
Drinks ..................2
Operation ................5
Business Factor ……..2
5=top, 4=very good, 3=o.k., 2=naja, 1=flop
