From Appenzeller herbal mulz, bitters and brewer's yeast for cows

Appenzeller products are well-known throughout Switzerland and Europe: Traditional ones like Mostbröckli, Siedwurst, Biber or Appenzeller cheese are just as successful as the innovative products of the Locher brewery or the sparkling lemonades of the Gontenbad mineral spring (Goba). Above all, Appenzeller cheese owes its fame to the clever advertising with the German actor Uwe Ochsenknecht, who wants to elicit the recipe of the herbal soup from two taciturn alpine dairymen. But "this is and will remain a secret," it was already said in 2002 in the first TV sport with the actor.

Older than the Confederation

Carlo Schmid, former member of the Council of States and Chairman of the Board of the Appenzeller Variety Organization, said in June 2017 during his 75th anniversary speech: "It cannot be that Appenzeller cheese has only been produced for 75 years. Appenzeller cheese has been around longer than the Swiss Confederation." As early as 1281, the farmers of Appenzell had to deliver 60 cheeses as compensation to the abbot of the monastery of St. Gallen who was resigning, Schmid said. In 1942, the Federal Council subordinated the entire food sector to the war economy: milk, butter and cheese were rationed, and prices were set by the state. In 1949, this regime was abolished.

However, Appenzell farmers, cheesemakers and traders agreed that this market order had to be continued privately - even without the regulations from Bern, and they founded the Variety Organization.

In the founding year, 750 tons of Appenzeller cheese were produced. Today it is around 9000 tons. The "Appenzeller" is produced in about 50 village cheese dairies in the cantons of Appenzell Ausserhoden, Thurgau and St. Gallen and then distributed worldwide.

Yellow gentian roots

Staging secrets is also a marketing strategy for Appenzeller Alpenbitter. According to the company's portrait, the aperitif with 29 percent alcohol is "made 100 percent from natural raw materials and without chemical ingredients. The recipe has remained unchanged since the beginning, the mixture of the 42 herbs the same and a well-kept family secret." The bitters have been around since 1902 and were once considered a remedy.

In order to produce the unmistakable taste, in addition to herbs such as anise, juniper and peppermint, it also needs the roots of the yellow gentian, that much is revealed. They can only be dug up after four years. The company relied on local cultivation and partnership with seven herb women and two farmers.

In women's hands

Goba has also been in women's hands since 1999. Gabriela Manser is the third generation to run the family business in Gonten AI. Thanks to investments in modern production facilities and the development of new lines of business, Goba has gained a firm place among beverage producers as an SME with 60 employees. In 2002, the creative entrepreneur invented the drink Flauder. The abbreviation stands for Flickflauder, which means butterfly in the Appenzell dialect.

It took two years to set up the new beverage. In the meantime, the brand has been registered several times. In 2011, the elderflower-flavored mineral water received alcoholic competition. A company from Appenzell launched a sparkling wine called "Flauderspiel". In a high-profile trademark dispute, the Innerrhoden cantonal court ruled in favor of the Goba company.

Magic powers

The Locher brewery in Appenzell swears by the full moon. The full moon beer is brewed at full moon and the brewers are convinced that it "acquires magical powers as a result". The beers are brewed with spring water from the Alpstein. The traditional peasant paintings on the beer labels are meant to illustrate the values that Appenzeller beer stands for. Four years ago, the brewery took a big leap forward: The new storage tanks were put into operation. Around 250,000 hectoliters of beer are brewed there every year.

Beer massage for cattle

Co-owner Karl Locher attaches great importance to sustainability and regionality in food production. And this also includes the sensible use of residual products. The Dähler family, which has been growing wheat and malting barley for the Locher brewery since 1996, became famous for its Kabier meat. The cattle are fed by-products from beer production and massaged twice a day. Although the feed of spent malt, brewer's yeast and beer forerun is slightly alcoholic, the animals do not get tipsy and do not show promille levels in their blood. The meat is traded as the most expensive in the world. (Nathalie Grand, Keystone-SDA)