Lifestyle: Luxury rethought
Madame" magazine is one of the most renowned fashion and lifestyle magazines in the German-speaking world. Since the beginning of 2021, it has been operating without a major publishing house behind it - and despite the print crisis, it continues to develop steadily. How does that work?

These days, success stories are rare in the print media industry, even in the DACH region. The magazine Madame – along with its accompanying publication Mr. – is one of the few exceptions: In early 2021, longtime editor-in-chief Petra Winter and the Munich-based Looping Group took over the magazine from Bauer-Verlag, streamlined its processes, and turned it into a «journalistic speedboat.» With the help of the new Chief Business Officer, Bettina Billerbeck, the magazine is now set to be expanded into a platform for a wide range of activities. We sat down with «Madame’s» co-leaders for an interview.
m&k: Petra Winter, in early 2021 you acquired the well-known media brands «Madame» and «Monsieur» from the Bauer Group—together with the Munich-based Looping Group, a company that had previously been active primarily in marketing and PR. This transition took you from being an editor-in-chief to a media entrepreneur. How did this move come about?
Petra Winter: In 2020, Bauer Verlag carried out a portfolio review in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. At that time, the Madame brand had only been with Bauer for about two years; as a result, it was not yet considered a core asset and was to be put up for sale. I had been the title’s editor-in-chief since 2014 and was asked by the publisher if I would like to help find a buyer. And one of my first thoughts was actually the Looping Group, a communications company in Munich founded by media professionals and former journalists.
«Our storytelling skills are an asset that can be used to generate new business.»
So it's not a traditional publishing house.
Winter: No, but it’s a company with a strong affinity for the media industry and robust digital capabilities. And it’s precisely the latter that «Madame» has lacked in recent years. «Madame» has always been a great magazine; in print, I think we’ve always done a good job and developed well. I’ve been with the magazine for nine years now, so looking back, I’m in a good position to assess this. But on the digital front, we often fell short due to complex structures within the publishing house, lengthy decision-making processes, indecision, and perhaps a lack of vision. And that’s why I thought: Something has to happen urgently now, or else we really won’t be around anymore at some point. No compromises on print quality and strong innovations in the digital realm. Dominik Wichmann from Looping and I then said relatively quickly, «Let’s do this together!» And I’m very, very happy about that.
You are one of Germany's best-known journalists in your field, and you would certainly have found a high-profile position elsewhere if it weren't for the Madame was not continued. The question—asked with a wink—is: Why did you «take on» that business risk?
Winter: (laughs) You don’t just give a child up for adoption the moment things get a little tough. Back then, when Bauer was considering selling the brand, I had grown very attached to our team—16 wonderful colleagues for whom I felt responsible. I didn’t want to have to tell them: «We won’t be around tomorrow—it’s all over.» I’m deeply attached to the brand, to our product. As Chief Creative Officer, I’m still responsible for the editorial side of the magazine; at the same time, I’m really enjoying my new role as an entrepreneur. Simply because the impact of every single decision affects you much more directly; because nothing is decided over your head. I don’t shy away from responsibility—it actually lets me flourish.

Ms. Billerbeck, a few months ago you joined the editorial board of the Madame got on. Before that, you Beautiful Living run by Gruner+Jahr, Europe’s largest home decor magazine. Major publishing house or compact media company: Which business model holds the key to the future?
Bettina Billerbeck: I think it really depends on the genre. For premium magazines, I’d say small, independent companies have a clear advantage as publishers. This also has a lot to do with the fact that large publishing houses always have these historically established structures—those massive central departments. And of course, you don’t have that in a «fast-moving» operation like ours. That has its pros and cons: While you have to do an incredible amount yourself, you don’t have to help fund the central departments—at the expense of your own bottom line. And, to be perfectly honest: working at the big publishing houses is no longer nearly as comfortable as it once was.
Winter: Publishers have always been spoiled by the insane profit margins they’ve enjoyed for many decades—returns of 30 percent or more were not uncommon. That was, of course, phenomenal, which is why so many publishers are so incredibly wealthy. (laughs) Furthermore, almost all major publishing houses in Germany are family-run and tend to operate conservatively. These two factors combined have meant that in many places, people probably realized too late when something was no longer working. They should have asked themselves, «What does the future look like?» And a lack of flexibility or weak vision then leads only to short-term solutions. Are margins falling? Then we’ll just cut costs.
«… that’s why I thought: Something has to happen right away, or else we really won’t be around anymore at some point.»
But do you want to address declining margins—and advertisers’ growing skepticism toward print ads—in a different, more proactive way?
Winter: Yes. The Madame We’ve been around for exactly 70 years, and during that time we’ve built strong relationships with decision-makers in the fashion and lifestyle industries—from Armani to Chanel. We know the brands, and we understand their target audience because it overlaps with our readership. And that’s why brands are increasingly coming to us and asking, «Don’t you have an idea for how we can showcase our new collection, our new product, or our new service?» Our storytelling skills are an asset that can be used to generate new business.
Could you give us an example? I'm sure this would also be of interest to our colleagues at Swiss media companies.
Winter: Last year, we worked with the Giorgio Armani brand on what’s known as a «One-Production.» This is a communication product invented by Looping: In this case, it involved a day of filming with the client, featuring men’s and women’s styling done by my fashion director, Konstantin Spachis. It was designed for a target audience that was still in lockdown at the time. We generated social media content for our channels, created images for Armani’s CRM and its customer base… and were able to increase the brand’s revenue by over 50 percent during the campaign period. This goes far beyond the traditional transaction of “media client pays, media outlet delivers an ad.” And the content created ultimately belongs to the client, so it can be reused time and time again.
So, is traditional advertising a thing of the past?
Winter: There are still some clients for whom it’s important to also make an «impact» in print—in addition to other activities. Chanel, for example; they design their campaigns with all media channels in mind. According to a recent study, magazine ads are still the number one driver of brand awareness. Others no longer create dedicated print ads and, while they still want to be in magazines, prefer to do so through advertorials. Perhaps this will mean we’ll have to raise our copy rates over time, but we’re counting on our readership to go along with it—because they’d consider the product worth a higher price. What is certain, however, is that it will lead us to diversify our revenue models and introduce new offerings—in both the B2B and B2C sectors.
Billerbeck: What I find extremely interesting, though, Petra, is that you can tell some advertisers are a bit disappointed with display advertising. I keep hearing that this can even be a reason for a partial «return» to print. In any case, we can be very satisfied with the ad performance right now. And as I said, we’re working on new models for the future.
And in terms of new media formats: With «Maison Madame,» for example, you’ve launched a «luxury healthness» brand that’s specifically aimed at middle-aged women and men. Is this a target group that has been neglected in the media and advertising until now?
Billerbeck: We work with a very mature brand, but we’re also dealing with a mature readership. In the past, people were considered out of the relevant advertising target group by age 50—and of course, we don’t see it that way at all! The typical «Madame» reader is in her mid-40s, and the «Monsieur» by her side is perhaps a bit older. They have a lot of financial freedom, but they’re not getting any younger either. And when you’re putting out a magazine like ours or developing related products, you have to think carefully about how your readers« needs are changing: What challenges do they face, and where can we offer help and ideas? »Maison Madame” operates at the intersection of luxury, wellness, and health—stylishly, yet in a relaxed way. And with a realistic perspective on “real” women and men who want to treat themselves to something special.
«The more fractures appear in the world, the greater the need for beauty and distraction.»

In light of the pandemic years and the current political situation: What role can—or should—luxury, «treating oneself,» or aesthetics play in all of our lives?
Billerbeck: I believe they can help us stay sane during difficult times. Pleasant experiences—a short trip, a change of scenery—are so important for maintaining our resilience. And we need that resilience to be able to help others effectively. Added to this is the aspect of sustainability, which is making us rethink luxury: Many people have realized, especially during the pandemic, that they don’t actually need that many material things, but that what they do buy should be of better quality. Nothing is more sustainable than what I don’t throw away.
Winter: The more fractures appear in the world, the greater our need for beauty and distraction becomes. And that’s okay. A certain hedonism, a «Carpe Diem» attitude, can sometimes be liberating. By the way, I really like Bettina’s phrase, «rethinking luxury»: When we were still part of Bauer Publishing, the company conducted a survey among employees in the middle of the pandemic: «What does luxury mean to you?» And people didn’t primarily say, «A designer handbag!» They said that too, but that came much later. For most people, luxury is spending time with their loved ones—quality time—eating together, getting together, and sharing experiences.
«When it comes to premium magazines, I would say that small, independent companies have a clear advantage as publishers.»
Do you also want to reflect this shift in awareness in your journalism?
Winter: We always say: Our readers want not only beauty, but also quality. Of course, we know that not everyone can afford expensive luxury products that offer a special commitment to sustainability in terms of both quality and price. Younger people, in particular, are increasingly shopping for vintage fashion instead of filling their bags with cheap T-shirts at fashion discount stores. And this isn’t just a trend; it’s here to stay.
Billerbeck: It is right and proper that we feature items that can remain part of our readers’ lives for 15 or 20 years. Whether it’s a sweater or a piece of furniture, the entire industry—including both brands and publications in the premium segment—bears responsibility for sustainability. We take this responsibility seriously.



m&k: Sabine Wagner-Schäfer, there is currently a very strong willingness to donate to refugees from the war in Ukraine. How are most people donating right now?Sabine Wagner-Schäfer: Most people donate money to an NPO. I believe this is the right approach. Aid organizations know best how to ensure that the money benefits refugees in a targeted and sustainable way. In addition, there is a great willingness among the public to collect and deliver in-kind donations. As admirable as this willingness to help is, I view it with some skepticism. While these independent efforts are well-intentioned, they very often do not lead to success.














Klaus Kappeler was a co-founder and CEO of the Goldbach Group.




