Younger than ever after 55 years Fashion

Publicis has launched a comprehensive branding campaign to mark Charles Vögele's 55th anniversary. A new flagship store is opening in Zurich this week.

Since mid-February 2009, a new spirit has been bringing fresh ideas to the tradition-steeped fashion house. André Maeder, who had already worked in purchasing at Vögele in the 1990s, returned to the Swiss chain's headquarters in Pfäffikon after an international career in the fashion world. Maeder worked at Harrods in London as well as being a board member at Hugo Boss since 2004. For the top label, he was responsible for the global licensing business, in addition to overall management of Hugo Boss in North and South America and Japan. In a highly competitive market, Vögele is expected to continue to grow - despite more competitors in Switzerland and, at the same time, 2 percent lower sales for the industry as a whole last year. Zurich-based Publicis with the team of CD Sacha Moser won the mandate for an international campaign in a Europe-wide pitch. The campaign will be implemented cross-medially from Germany to Poland. At the heart of the campaign are five spots by Danish star director Jonas Arnby. In them, people like you and me feel so comfortable in their own skin that they let themselves be carried away by spontaneous catwalks.
"Awakening on all levels"
The newly appointed CEO André Maeder on Vögele's new dress.
WW: According to new figures, there is a cutthroat market in the fashion business in Switzerland. What strategy does Charles Vögele have to face up to this competition?
André Maeder: Charles Vögele is embarking on a new era at all levels. The measures introduced along the entire value chain are realigning the company. As far as the Group's visual image is concerned, since autumn 2009 we have adjusted the marketing mix, emotionalized advertising and introduced a new store design.
Charles Vögele has increased its annual collections from 4 to 8. What changes and effort does that mean logistically?
To enable the collection rhythm to be doubled as early as fall 2010, purchasing was divided into three areas according to core competencies in order to speed up the processes. Brand Management creates all the collections, Sourcing takes care of their procurement, and Merchandise Management allocates the clothes to the stores.
On March 25, a new store concept will be launched with a flagship store in Zurich. What can we already reveal about this concept?
The new generation no longer has much in common with the previous store design. The brands are staged centrally on the sales floor in shop-in-shop style and radiate out to the core departments. New product carriers for lay-flat goods can be found in place of round stands. In the spirit of "less is more," merchandise pressure has been reduced.
The accessory shares are to be increased to 10 percent. How important is this expansion?
It's no secret that accessories are one of the most significant growth drivers for fashion companies.
Bags, scarves and shoes are the "pièce de résistance" of any wardrobe. Some chains with cheaper offers are making an unmistakable impact on the Swiss market. What do you think of this trend and what do you, for your part, want to use to win customers away from stores like H&M or C&A?
So far, the two big German Texil discounters Takko and Kik have not been active in the Swiss market. But we see them as innovative competitors in our other markets. Our goal is to occupy the market niche between H&M and C&A.
Migros has increased its stake in Charles Vögele to over 15 percent. What could be the reason for this?
Migros is therefore our largest shareholder. Why it is invested in our company, you have to ask Migros itself.
How and where does Charles Vögele intend to grow further abroad?
Our primary aim is to further expand our strong positions in the main markets of Switzerland, Germany, and Austria. Smaller store formats with location-specific sub-ranges promise further potential. Furthermore, e-commerce will be developed as an additional sales channel in 2011.
What do you personally like about Publicis' new advertising for the Charles Vögele brand?
The four TV spots are fresh and cheeky - just like Charles Vögele's new spirit. The image campaign for the Group's 55th anniversary has a high recognition value and can be used in an ideal cross-media way. This comes across particularly well on our newly designed website.
Interview: Andreas Panzeri
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André Maeder.
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