How has underwear marketing changed in 150 years, "Monsigneur Zimmerli"?

At first glance, the brand based in Aarburg has nothing spectacular about it. The logo is simple: Zimmerli, written in small letters, italicized in the font, with the addition "of Switzerland". Only at second glance does the luxury world of the Swiss textile brand become apparent. For example in the flagship stores on Berlin's Kudamm, in Zurich's Storchengasse or in Shanghai. The 15 stores around the world welcome customers with dignified elegance. Precious woods, polished marble and warm light. And yet there is nothing exciting to buy - at first glance. There is underwear for him and her, as well as nightwear and loungewear. Not a single item costs less than 50 francs.

Whoever strokes the shirt feels it

So what's so special about this underwear? If you run your hand over it, you can feel it. The underwear is made from the finest materials. It is light as a feather and cuddly soft. According to the brand's commitment: "Our quest for the ultimate in comfort shapes every step. From the meticulous selection of exclusive natural fibers to the elaborate work and finishing processes. Every piece that leaves our Swiss manufactory is unique and handmade. It is the sum total of all the consciously cultivated details that creates the typical Zimmerli feeling of well-being, since 1871."

It was almost 150 years ago that the name Zimmerli first caused a sensation. Using a single-needle knitting machine, Pauline Zimmerli produced the finest stockings and men's socks. The product quickly became a bestseller in the region. Spurred on by her success, she also produced ribbed fabrics and underwear - using a new knitting machine she had designed.

Swing behind the waistline

Madame Zimmerli brought zest behind the waistline and also played the marketing keyboard. In 1876, Zimmerli placed newspaper advertisements and launched what are now known as print campaigns. She sent her sons to Paris and America to expand her sales markets. Today, this is called internationalization and globalization.

Zimmerli expanded rapidly, built new factories and boosted its sales marketing with sensational awards: Gold medals were won at world exhibitions in Paris and Brussels.

Until its sale to v.Nordeck International Holding in 2007, Zimmerli experienced all the ups and downs of an international brand. "Ultimately, we have only now reintroduced strategic marketing," says Marcel Hossli, CEO since 2008. "There were one or two problems in the past." The brand had to be brought back on track and positioned clearly. Hossli: "But there is a link between then and now, the brand DNA that Pauline Zimmerli established: the best raw materials, the best workmanship, the highest quality."

Supreme law: Quality

This supreme law of quality has been followed by all owners and bosses of the Aarburg brand over the decades. And the luxury quality produced has inspired the world. The King of Morocco's trip to Switzerland to shop at Zimmerli for 100,000 francs is legendary.

Then came Rocky, alias Sylvester Stallone. He boldly and visibly wore a Zimmerli undershirt in his world-famous boxing films. Mel Gibson and Bruce Willis did the same on the big screen. George Clooney freely admitted: "I love Zimmerli." Recently, the German magazine "brand eins" revealed that superstar David Beckham had himself photographed in a high-end Swiss shirt, even though he was still under contract with Armani.

The stars like to cuddle with Zimmerli. This brought wonderful PR, but with too little sustainability. A contractual, long-term collaboration with the VIPs could not be financed. Even acquiring the relevant photo rights to get the PR machine going was too expensive. And so the photos with the famous Zimmerli VIPs now hang in the production plant in Mendrisio and at the headquarters in Aarburg. Footnote: "Not authorized for publication".

Zimmerli excursion on the water

A Zimmerli outing on the water was also interesting in appearance, but too short-lived: in 2006, the brand sailed in various regattas. The boat was branded, with an XXL yuppie in underwear on the sail (photo). But the race for attention and publicity soon came to an end. "Sponsorship is no longer an issue for us today. We don't have the money for that," says CEO Marcel Hossli.

By 2007, the brand from the previous century had been on a rollercoaster ride with questionable success: there were sales crises, sales surges, disputes over licenses, a women's collection that was sometimes dropped from the range and then reintroduced, and, and, and. Eugen Rapp, textile expert and publisher of the German industry magazine klartext, says: "Despite all the disagreements, one thing has remained the same, namely the high product quality. For me, Zimmerli is and remains the Rolls Royce of underwear brands."

In 2007, v.Nordeck International Holding took over Zimmerli Textil. Nordeck is owned by the heirs of cookie manufacturer Bahlsen and invests in specialized craft businesses. With the new owners, Marcel Hossli, a luxury specialist, joined the management team in 2008. The new Zimmerli CEO was previously a manager at the watch brand Patek Philippe.

And how does the new marketing for the underwear brand work? What is the new direction of the old brand? Hossli, the current "Monsigneur Zimmerli", has a surprising answer: "Ultimately, we have returned to the strategy of Pauline Zimmerli: Positioning as number one in the luxury lingerie segment, expanding brand awareness and increasing distribution."

Growth of 60 percent in eight years

In recent years, Zimmerli has expanded its global network to 15 stores. 650 specialist retailers, including the world's major luxury department stores, stock the Swiss brand. According to Hossli, the company will soon be adding two new locations of its own, in Hamburg and Beirut. The Managing Director does not want to confirm annual sales of just under 100 million francs. He says: "In the past eight years, we have grown by 60 percent."

Despite the increasing trend, also due to online retail, the luxury brand remains rather defensive in its external appearance. "We want to update the brand slowly," says the Managing Director. To this end, he hired the Zurich agency DD Com two years ago. It produces the key visuals for the Zimmerli world.

passengers a pair of Zimmerli pyjamas. No major print or TV campaigns are planned for the time being. Nevertheless, the brand has an unaided awareness level of 20 percent in Switzerland.

And why is Zimmerli not sexy at all, Mr. Hossli? "Quite simply," says the Managing Director, "the others are already doing that. We're different, and we're proud of that."

Text: Peter Ehm